What is “pancaking”?

Has your dance teacher told you to pancake your shoes for the upcoming performance?  Or maybe that you have to pancake the straps on your costume?   Pancaking is the act of applying a liquid/cream pigment (generally skin-colored makeup or calamine lotion) to a fabric dancewear item so that it achieves a desired color or “look” from a stage distance. 

If you are wearing a tutu or dress on stage and the costumer has attached white elastic straps, you may be asked to apply foundation makeup to the straps so they blend with your skin tone and make the costume appear strapless.  This is pancaking the straps.  If you are performing a piece en pointe or in canvas ballet shoes and you need to appear barefoot, you will also pancake your shoes with face makeup.  If you are performing a piece en pointe and the director wants your pointe shoes to be matte or the same color as all the other dancers’ shoes, you will be asked to pancake your shoes with calamine lotion (available at drugstores: just make sure you get the pink kind, not the clear kind), which dries down to a powdery texture and light peach color that matches most mesh backseam performance tights.

The term “pancaking” refers only to applying liquid or cream pigments to fabric with a sponge or brush.  If you are required to make shoes or other items black, red, or another dark color using fabric markers, you are “coloring.”  See my article on how to color dance shoes here.

The easiest way to pancake straps on a costume is to put it on and let a friend use a makeup sponge to apply liquid foundation to the straps for you.  You will probably get makeup on your shoulders and back, but this will ensure that you don’t miss the last inch or so of strap closest to where it attaches to your costume.  DO NOT use a concealer stick to color the straps on your costume; it doesn’t dry and will create a huge mess.  Powder foundation will similarly make a huge mess, and it generally does not stick to fabric straps.

To pancake shoes, use a makeup sponge, makeup brush, or paint brush to apply makeup or calamine to your shoes.  Put your non-dominant hand in the shoe to hold it as you apply color with your dominant hand.  Don’t pancake the sole of the shoe, but make sure you remember to add color to the drawstring, elastic, and ribbons.  Let the shoes dry, then go back later and touch up any missed spots.  Always let shoes dry for at least 6 hours before dancing in them (longer if you live in a very humid climate).